[MFR] Voron V0.2 Kit Review

A detailed, builder-focused review based on a full livestreamed build, long-term use, and real tuning.

Disclosure & Intent

This Voron V0 kit was provided by [MFR] for the purpose of creating content around it. I paid for the shipping. I was not paid to feature this kit, and I retained full editorial control over this review.

Some links on this page are affiliate links. Using them helps support the channel and future projects at no additional cost to you. My goal here is not to sell you this kit, but to give you enough real information to decide whether it makes sense for you.


TL;DR — Should you buy the [MFR] Voron V0 kit?

Yes, why yes.

No, why no.

Formbot V0 Video Review


It is:

  • A deep look at kit completeness, quality, and value

  • An honest account of build friction and problem areas

  • A long-term perspective informed by tuning and real prints

  • Written from the point of view of a careful but non-expert Voron builder

I want people that are looking at this kit to feel informed about what it contains, what it doesn’t, and all of it’s Pros & Cons

Formbot V0 Build Streams

What This Review Is (and Isn’t)

This is a builder-centric, experience-driven review of the [MFR] Voron V0 kit

It is not:

  • A step-by-step build guide

  • A generic Voron V0 overview

  • A sponsored sales page

If you want to see the entire build process, check out the full livestream playlist above. You can see all details of mistakes, fixes, and troubleshooting.

Why the Voron V0?

If you’re reading this, you’re probably already familiar with the Voron V0 platform and why it exists.

Briefly:

  • Compact CoreXY kinematics capable of very high speeds

  • Simple cantilever bed (manual leveling, no mesh required)

  • Fully enclosed chamber suitable for ABS / ASA

  • Small 120×120×120 mm build volume with fast heat-up

  • Powered by Klipper, with a massive mod ecosystem

The Voron V0 is one of the most popular entry points into the Voron ecosystem, and for many people, it’s their first DIY CoreXY printer.

All of those were the case for me. It was also my first printer with linear rails and first fully enclosed printer even those I’ve owned used and reviewed upwards of 12 3D Printers in the past.

Checkout the Voron Database for examples of what other builders have done. Color schemes, filaments and mods. There’s a saying that you don’t build A VORON, you build YOUR VORON.


The [MFR] V0 Kit at a Glance

About the [MFR] V0.2 kit.

Princing:

  • Price 1

More about pricing and featutres.

You’ll have to decide if you want to print parts yourself, buy them from [MFR], buy them from another retailer one Etsy or other retailers, or purchase them from the Vorno PIF (Print-it-forward) program. I chose to purchase my printed parts from Fabreeko’s cPIF program where they team up with PIF members and utilize Fabreeko’s shipping capabilities to receive your parts faster than the typical Voron PIF turnaround times.

Relationship to the Stock Voron V0 Specification

About the [MFR] kit.

More about:

  • About 1

Even more about:

  • The BTT Pi V1.2

  • Kirigami Bed Frame

Builders can generally count on:

  • Getting help on the official Voron Discord is straightforward

  • Community troubleshooting advice applies cleanly

  • This build is recognizable as a standard V0 configuration

This matters, especially when compared to kits that significantly diverge from the reference design.

  • Formbot V0.2 Kit

    $329-489

    V0.2r1 newest revision.

  • Stock Kit

    $???

    Recommended parts

  • Single Board Computer
  • BTT Pi
  • Raspberry Pi
  • Controller Board
  • BTT SKR Pico
  • BTT SKR Pico
  • Display
  • V0 Display
  • V0 Display (Optional)
  • Toolhead Wiring
  • V0 Umbilical
  • V0 Umbilical (Optional)
  • Power Supply
  • Meanwell LRS 150-24
  • Meanwell LRS 150-24
  • Hotend
  • CHC V6 / Dragon / Dragon HF
  • Drgaon / Voron Revo
  • Bed Frame
  • Kirigami Frame
  • Printed + Extrusions (Kirigami Optional)
  • Panels
  • Polycarbonate
  • Acryllic
  • Wiring
  • Pre-cut & Crimped
  • Builder Cut & Crimped

Packaging & Unboxing

About packaging and Unboxing.

Features:

  • Feature 01

    • More

Final thoughts.


Documentation

About the documentation

Doc Info:

  • Info 1

Final thoughts.


Hardware Quality Breakdown

Frame & Extrusions

About fame and extrusions:

  • Feat 1

Quality impressions:

  • Qualities 1

Final thoughts.


Bed Frame

The Kirigami frame is a welcome inclusion but is not a full Kirigami kit — only the frame itself.

Pros:

  • Pro 1

Issues encountered:

  • Issue 2

Bed frame .


Heated Bed & Build Surface

  • Spec 01

More about bed.


Screws, Nuts & Other Hardware

  • About hardware

Final thoughts about HW.


Electronics Overview

SBC

About SBC:

  • Spec 1

More about SBC/Mainboard.

Display

About Display

Mainboard

About Mainboard

Fans

About Faans:

  • Info 1

More about fans.

Both are valid — CANBus is an evolution, not a requirement.

Umbilical

  • Faster initial setup

  • Fewer components

  • Works well for stock builds

Why I Migrated to CANBus

Eventually, I chose to migrate to a single-cable CANBus toolhead setup, not because the Umbilical was unusable, but because CANBus offered additional benefits.

Contributing factors:

  • Intermittent ADC out-of-range errors and MCU disconnects w/ Umbilical

  • Molex cable sensitivity

  • Desire to simplify wiring further

  • Ability to have a filament run out sensor, buttons, RGB and other enhancements at the toolhead

    • I wanted use the Magneeto X Lancer (Orbiter 2) extruder with a Dragon Burner toolhead

  • Interest in modern toolhead architectures

CANBus Setup Details

  • Single 4-wire cable to toolhead:

    • 24 V / GND

    • CAN+ / CAN−

  • EBB36 v1.2 toolhead board

  • All toolhead components plug directly into the EBB

  • Much easier RGB LED integration

  • Frees IO and fan pins on the SKR Pico, which is otherwise constrained

This setup pairs well with the BTT Pi V1.2 + CAN expansion board. I highly recommend the Esoterical CANBus Guide if you’re interested in trying it out on your printer

Other Electronics

  • Spec 1

    • More Spec 1

Final thoughts

CANBus

  • Cleanest wiring

  • Fewer failure points long-term

  • Frees MCU IO

  • Easier RGB and future expansion

Additional Wiring Improvements

  • Chamber LEDs now run in parallel from a single 5 V / GND / Data pin on the SKR Pico

  • SBC → SKR Pico connection switched from USB to UART

    • Uses RX/TX added to the existing 5-pin JST power connector

    • Improves robustness and avoids USB quirks

Full instructions for CANBus and UART wiring are documented in the GitHub repo.

Callout: Umbilical vs CANBus (Quick Comparison)


Custom Hardware = Anti-Voron?

Initial Umbilical Experience

The included V0 Umbilical works as intended and dramatically simplifies initial wiring. I ran the printer for hundreds of hours using the Umbilical without major issues.



Build Experience

General build sentiment.

Issues:

  • Issue 1

Other notes.

Tuning & Print Quality

Tuning followed standard Voron and Klipper practices:

  • Extruder rotation distance

  • First-layer squish

  • Pressure Advance

  • Input Shaping

  • Material-specific flow tuning

After tuning:

  • Clean surface finish

  • Reduced ringing

  • Consistent extrusion

  • Excellent performance for such a small printer

Check out OrcaSlicer’s calibration guide & Chris Ellis’ Tuning guide†

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Pro 1

  • Pron2

Cons

  • Con 1

  • Con 2


Who This Kit Is For

Great fit if you:

  • Fit 1

Less ideal if you:

  • Unfit 1

Where to Buy (Affiliate Links)

[MFR] V0 Kit – Choice Page
LINK

Direct options:

  • AliExpress: Link

  • [MFR] Direct: Link

Related products:

  • Product 1: Link

  • Poduct 2: Link

Resources & Media

  • Full Review Video:
    Link

  • Complete Build Stream Playlist:
    Link

  • GitHub Repo (Configs, Wiring, Notes):
    Link

Final Thoughts

Conclusion

Last updated: [Date]

This page will be updated as the printer evolves.